RIVERS of an UNKNOWN LAND
Author: Vladimir Gavrilov (e-mail: vladgavrilov@yahoo.com)
Web page of the Russian Whitewater from USA
|
This web page should be interesting for all whitewater lovers,
outdoor travelers, and of course, those of you who want to know more about Russia and
former Soviet republics, not from official guidebooks, but from a person who has traveled
in the Russian outdoors for more than 25 years. This web page contains extract information
from my book "Rivers of an Unknown Land" that (I hope) will be published soon in the USA.
Explore and run great whitewater rivers in the former Soviet Union.
Help to open the way to the Russian outdoors for Western adventurers and
travellers. To attract the attention of whitewater enthusiasts and outdoor
companies to incredible opportunities in a great "unknown" country. To find a closer
connection with whitewater folk in Russia and West.
Vladimir Gavrilov |
RIVERS of an UNKNOWN LAND
Web pages of the Russian Whitewater, USA Version
You may have traveled a lot around the world, but if you have not boated on any trips to former Soviet territory you missed more than 1/6 part of the world and even bigger part of outdoor world, because the vast majority of these lands are unpopulated wilderness.
Here, on this page, you will find a lot of information about rivers and mountains, the most attractive areas
for whitewater expeditions and trips, and some tips for foreigners in outdoor Russia. Hope it will help you to plan your trips over there, make it more pleasant and enjoyable, and, finally, to share our love to that beautiful country, its people and culture.
PAGE CONTENTS:
Peculiarities of Outdoor travelling in the former USSR
***
Main Areas of Rafting in the former USSR:
EUROPEAN PART:
Karelia - Kola Peninsula - Ural Mountains area - Carpathian mountains - Caucasus:
SIBERIA:
Altai Mountains - Sayan Mountains - Baikal Lake Region - Northern Siberia - Far East:
CENTRAL ASIA:
Tien Shan Mountains - Pamir Mountains
Legends:
Tables contain the list of rivers of the certain area which are interest for whitewater run and some parameters that allow to estimate what to expect from the river. Some of the mentioned routs are combined with other river or request hiking to the river (sometimes for several days) unless you will get a helicopter.
The book contains complete info about regions and detail description of routs.
Class:
corresponding to internationally recognized six classes system. There are rivers of different class of difficulty, and certainly for the class 4 and + rivers you will need more info than you can find in tables (see "Rivers of an Unknown Land" or e-mail: vladgavrilov@yahoo.com).Length:
length of typical run (sometimes it maybe shorter or longer) given in km and miles . Remember, that there are often no roads to the river, and therefore you have to rent helicopter or choose option to carry all your stuff to Put In ( very special Russian fun). For the same reason, as a rule, if you start your run – you have to finish it at Take Out, not earlier. Length in the table presents only water part of the trip.Gradient:
average gradient on whitewater part of run given in meters per km, and feet per mile. For some rivers the gradient of the most crucial sections is given.Volume:
typical volume in best season for boating, may be greater or less. Some rivers in the tables have estimated volume. Given in cubic meters per second and cubic feet per second (cfs).*These two factors - VOLUME and GRADIENT - are very important. As a rule the river having higher volume more dangerous than the river having less volume at the same gradient. For experienced boater these two factors may say a lot.
Peculiarities of Outdoor travelling in the former USSR
When you arrive in the former USSR for the first time, especially in many of the outlying areas, you'll know you are not in Kansas anymore. In fact, navigating your way to one of the rivers here may be more challenging that riding the river itself. Finding a means of transporting your boats and equipment, crossing borders of this newly divided land, entering reserve zones, securing enough food, and making sure you don't break any local customs or commit egregious faux pas -- all this can be more taxing than running rapids.
We wish it were different, but at the present, there is immense political unrest in the countries of the former Soviet Union, especially now that some or the new, emerging nations are struggling for identity and self-rule, with various fractions fighting for control. Because of this, we suggest that you minimize your contact with the people of these regions, especially in the bigger villages and towns. As a rule, such conflicts do not exist in the more sparsely populated areas; nevertheless you may face some unhospitality there, too.
Furthermore, when you do find yourself in a village of the former Soviet Union, make sure you know the customs and traditions. It can make a big difference in how you are received. In Muslim areas, for instance, the population objects to anyone wearing shorts in towns and villages.
Supplies and equipment
Buying supplies and medicine in the former Soviet Union can be very difficult, and often there aren't any hospitals close by to the rivers. You may have some problems with determination of medicines: they have different names in different countries.
As a rule you may find the basics: camping gear, Soviet-style life vests, ropes, first aid supplies, repair kit, etc. But one may have a problem finding wetsuits and drysuits over here. Few outfitters have them.
If you use your own crafts, bring repair equipment too, because it maybe difficult to find glue for neopren, PVC or Hypolon, for instance.
Transportation
Transportation remains a major problem in the countries that make up the former Soviet Union. So we offer here basic information that should help make the journey easier.
Air Transportation
Airplanes connect all the major rafting regions with Moscow, St. Petersburg, and Kiev -- with some exceptions. The main regional airports are as follows:
Northern Caucasus: Mineralnye Vody
Eastern Caucasus: Makhachkala
Southern Caucasus: Tbilisi, Sukhumi
The Carpathians: L'vov
The Altai: Barnaul, Novosibirsk
Sayany and Lake Baikal: Krasnoyarsk, Kysyl, Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Chita
The Far East: Khabarovsk, Vladivostok, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatski
The Pamirs: Osh, Dushanbe, Tashkent, Khorog
Tien Shan: Bishkek, Tashkent, Osh, Alma-Ata
Aircraft large enough to carry you and your rafting gear can land at all of these airports. But remember: if the cargo exceeds 30 kilograms (66 pounds) in weight, it should be declared and handed in a day before departure.
Local aircraft and helicopter lines connect smaller airports in numerous towns and villages to the larger airports listed above. Most of these local airlines operate with a twelve-seat plane known as an An-2 or a fifteen-seat L-410 aircraft. The thirty-seat Yak-40 is rare. Because of the size of the available planes, it is often very difficult, if not impossible, to transport kayaks. Sometimes, one can find an Mi-8 helicopter (with fourteen to eighteen seats) that can carry kayaks.
Railroads
We suggest you use the railroads only for relatively short trips: for instance when you are going to Karelia or the Kolski Peninsula(ten and 20 hours respectively from St.Petersburg) or to Carpathians (twenty to twenty four hours from Moscow, St.Petersburg, and Riga)
It will take you more than thirty hours to reach the Caucasus Mountains by train from Moscow.
It will take forty-eight hours to reach Novosibirsk or Barnaul , seventy-two to reach Krasnoyarsk , and a bone jarring ninety-six hours to reach Irkutsk .
Roads
In a number of instances, four-wheel drive vehicles in poor shape and best traverse the local roads that lead to rivers. You may be able to find one to rent one at a local department of transportation, or you may find an owner of such a vehicle who can taxi you and your equipment to your destination. But, again, we advise you to make arrangements ahead of time. Whatever you do, try to avoid making last-minute arrangements. Not only can they be frustrating, but they may also lighten your pocketbook.
Necessary notes about unpleasant things
These are maybe unpleasant but extremely important things. Almost sure on territory of the former USSR you will meet situations when you will be faced with having to pay a bribe (do not mix with tip!). This ugly phenomena - the extortion of bribe - is very common here. Often you cannot decide any problem with out bribe. Especially common bribes in the transport and hotels. We may give you only one advice for limitation of your expenses: if you cannot decide you problem without bribe give possibility to talk with conductor in the train, receptionist in hotel, cashier to your Russian friend or guide. Do not "show" yourself for bribers, they are trying to get from foreigners hard currency. The "ruble" bribe as a rule will be for you much cheaper. As a rule, absolutely no use to ask police to help you - almost always local police has "common pocket" with bribers.
Second very unpleasant side of traveling in the former Soviet Union is theft. When you are close to villages and towns never leave your stuff without visual control. Take your things into the tent if you are in populated area. The theft is very common especially in such regions as Altai and Tuva. Very often teenagers are responsible for theft. A numerous of groups of rafters have lost their stuff: clothes, money, photo and video cameras. Be careful! In Pamir or Tien Shan mountains sometimes you can find missing things, but in Siberia this is hopeless.
These are just few excerpts from the book. You will find MUCH MORE in the original text.
Main Areas of Rafting in the former USSR:
EUROPEAN PART of the former USSR
There are four main areas of interest for the rafters in the European part of the former Soviet Union: North – Karelia and Kola peninsula, East – Ural Mountains, West – Carpatian Mountains, and the most interesting – Caucasus on the South. Below we provide brief info about each region and list of rivers over there that may be interesting. More info you can find in guidebook "Rivers of an Unknown Land" or send your questions to Vladimir Gavrilov (
vladgavrilov@yahoo.com)KARELIA
Karelia is the NorthWestern part of Russia bordering with Finland to the South from the Polar circle. This area has the earth surface substantially indented and relative average altitudes about 350 m. The repeated icing had specified the features of the Karelian relief, namely: big polished boulders called here "ram's foreheads", rolling sand plains, high pebble and sand embankments.
Karelian summers – the only rafting season -is short and cool. The weather is unstable. For instance, the sudden temperature falling is quite possible at summer together with strong winds and long pouring rains. The summer begins in the late June and lasts for 2.5-3 months. The average July temperatures are about 14-16 degrees above 0 Celsius. Clouds of the blood-sucking insects make great irritation in summer, especially in July.
Karelia is situated pretty close to the Polar Circle, that is why you will be happy to eyewitness the fascination of the "White Nights" when the day is 24 hours long in June and more than 22 in July.
More than 11,000 rivers flow through Karelia, and the rivers of its Northern part are more interesting for rafting, namely the Okhta, Kem', Von'ga, Pon'goma rivers. Almost all of them go through the chain of lakes (some of them pretty big). Therefore best boat for Karelia trip is kayak. There are a lot of picturesque islands in these lakes.
Average gradient is very low. All rivers have the same type: pool - rapid - pool.
Karels, Russians, Finns and Weps (total about 1,000,000 people) populate Karelia. Southern Karelia is densely populated, and the main occupation of the population is timber cutting, paper production, and mechanical engineering. The central city is Petrozavodsk. All rivers are accessible by train, bus, or truck. The main transport line that stretches through both Karelia and the Kola Peninsula is the St.Petersburg - Murmansk railway. The automobile roads connect it with the rivers you are interested in. The roads are not perfect (majority of them are dirt roads), but passable.
If you are in Petrozavodsk, do not forget to visit Kizhi Island - a unique museum of Russian Wooden Architecture.
The important thing you should remember is that Western Karelia and the Kola Peninsula coast are closed border areas and you need the special permission of the corresponding authorities. It also happens that in summer these areas can be closed due to the forest fires.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|||||
|
Chirka –Kem' + Kem' |
3- 3+ |
320 (199) |
0.5 (2.6) |
App.100 (3500) |
|||||
|
Okhta |
3 (5) |
204 (127) |
1 (5.2) |
70 (2450) |
|||||
|
Shuya |
2 |
210 (130) |
0.5 (2.6) |
||||||
|
Von'ga |
3 |
220 (137) |
0.7 (3.64) |
|
|||||
|
Pon'goma |
2+ |
300 (186) |
0.5 (2.6) |
||||||
KOLA PENINSULA
The Kola Peninsula lies to the North from Karelia in the Polar region. It can be divided into the Western and Eastern parts according to the relief peculiarities. The Western part has the complicated relief cut with numerous river valleys and lakes into the separate mountain masses called here "tundras". These mountains are flat, as a rule, with vertical slopes hundreds of meters high. The Eastern Kola Peninsula is jagged with rivers in the North and steeply falls to the Barentsevo Sea. The marsh valleys prevail in the center of the peninsula. The tundra occupies the main part of the peninsula. Moss, dwarf birches and pines grow here together with lichens and berry patches. The salmon lives in the rivers but it is illegal to catch it.
This area has pretty cool summer: snaps are possible, and the average temperature is about 12-13 degrees above 0 Celsius in July. The sun does not set here during 2.5 summer months.
About 18,000 rivers and 11,000 lakes are here. The best rivers for rafting are the Umba and the Yokan'ga. Like in Karelia, rivers usually pass the chain of lakes on their way, running down the waterfalls and rapids formed by the rocks in the riverbed. The pools between rapids or even long slow sections are very typical for Kola Peninsula rivers.
The population lives mainly in the cities. Murmansk is the biggest port on the north of Russia, Monchegorsk is the copper and nickel production center, and Kirovsk is famous for its apatite industry. The settlements of deer breeders (Nentsys, Saams) are situated in the tundra.
The main transport line that stretches through both Karelia and the Kola Peninsula is the St.Petersburg - Murmansk railway. The automobile roads connect it with some of the rivers (not all of them!) you are interested in. If you want to avoid line boats against the current or hike, you should look for helicopter option.
The important thing you should remember is that Western Karelia and the Kola Peninsula coast are closed border areas and you need the special permission of the corresponding authorities. It also happens that in summer these areas may be closed due to the forest fires.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|
Ponoy |
3 |
400 (248) |
0.5 (2.6) |
|
|
Pana-Varzuga |
2 |
280 (174) |
0.7 (3.64) |
|
|
Umba |
3+ |
240 (149) |
1(5.2) |
120 (4200) |
|
Yokan'ga |
4 |
250 (155) |
1.5 (7.3) |
80 (2800) |
URAL MOUNTAINS AREA
The ranges of Ural are natural borders between Europe and Asia. These average altitude ranges are ancient mountains that as wide arch lie between Arctic Ocean and border between Russia and Kazakhstan. Such location defines great variety of landscapes, vegetation, weather, and of course rivers. The most popular areas of Ural are Polar Ural and South Ural. The reason of this is good transport to areas. The Polar Ural is connected with Moscow by railroad Moscow-Vorkuta-Labytnangi. This is only way to start you trips over there. Landscapes are very different: from taiga to tundra, where rivers sometimes run in deep narrow canyons.
Polar Ural has the best white water in area, but some rivers are difficult to approach. There are almost no automobile roads over there. Long time the popular way for boaters was to combine some rivers: line boats upstream of one river, then do relatively short (5-20km) hike over the range to second river, and run it normally - downstream. Rivers of Polar Ural are very rich with fish, especially with grayling. Really bad side of Polar Ural is clouds of blood sucking insects. Remember that there is a lot of rain during summer, especially in July. Summer here is pretty cool: July (the warmest) has average 12-14C (56-60F).
South Ural has excellent connection with any big cities in Russia (both railway and air). The biggest cities to start trip are Ekaterinburg (former Sverdlovsk) and Chelyabinsk. The rivers here are pretty, but not difficult: as a rule is not higher than Class 2+.
The Ural is real paradise for lovers of mineralogy. You may find here hundreds of pretty samples of different minerals. There is one of the biggest world exhibitions of minerals in Gornyy Museum in Ekaterinburg.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km(ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|||||
|
Schugor |
3 |
350 (217) |
2.2 (5.8) |
||||||
|
Ilych |
2 |
360 (223) |
2 (5.2) |
||||||
|
Vangyr - Kos'yu |
3 |
320 (198) |
2.5 (6.8) |
||||||
|
Chusovaya |
1 |
362 (224) |
|||||||
|
Vishera |
2 |
300 (186) |
|||||||
|
Kara |
3+ |
280 (174) |
3 (7.8) |
150 |
|||||
|
Silovayakha |
4 |
260 (161) |
4 (10.2) |
60 |
|||||
WESTERN UKRAINE
The best whitewater of Ukraine is located, without doubts, in Carpathians.The Carpathians are the mountain system in the Eastern Europe. Its Eastern part is situated on the territory of the Western Ukraine (the so-called Ukrainian Carpats with the highest point called Goverla of 2061 m height). Low smooth ranges are the most typical for this mountain chain.
The weather during the rafting season as a rule very unstable with a lot of rains and even snow is possible. During our six trips to this region we had sunny warm weather only once.
Plenty of rivers are here, of course, but most of them do not have and are not to be used for rafting. The water level depends very much on the falling rain and snow amounts, therefore the successful rafting can be guaranteed only for April and May when snow melting goes on. The river's gradient is rather big. Maybe, these rivers are more interesting for Europeans rafters and kayakers because of their small length, unstable weather, but good access from West and East Europe.
The area is densely populated. The main population consists of the West-Ukrainian ethnic groups. The Carpathian villages are very picturesque with their little nice houses scattered here and there on the flowering (in the May) slopes and eighteenth century wooden churches that have hardly been preserved anywhere else. Folk trades are in favor here, for instance, ceramics, woodcarving.
The road network is perfectly developed, in complex with the railways. L'vov, Tshernovtsy and Stanislav are the best cities for going to the rafting start points.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km(ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|||||
|
Chernyy (Black) Cheremosh |
3+ |
72 (45) |
14 (72.8) |
40 (1400) |
|||||
|
Belyy (White) Cheremosh |
4 |
32 (20) |
9.7 (50.4) |
20 (700) |
|||||
|
Upper Prut |
4 |
48 (30) |
6-7 (36.4) |
50 (1750) |
|||||
|
Chernaya (Black) Tisa |
4 |
77 (48) |
19 (100) |
40 (1400) |
|||||
|
Belaya (White) Tisa |
3+ |
20 (13) |
14 (72.8) |
15 (525) |
|||||
|
Yuzhnyy (South) Boog |
2-3 |
200 (126) |
1.5 (3.9) |
||||||
CAUCASUS
This young mountain region with the complicated and various reliefs without any doubts has the best white water in European part of the former USSR. The water of the glaciers feeds the rivers together with melting snow.
The parts of the rivers interesting for rafting are rather short (only 2 to 7days), but are extremely saturated with difficult places and obstacles up to Class 5 and 6, have big gradient and fast current. The best rafting seasons are May and August - October, because in June as a rule the time of the most intensive melting of glaciers and water in the rivers is extremely high and too dangerous for rafting.
The Caucasus is the part of several republics (Russia, Georgia, Azerbaydzhan, & Armenia) and is densely populated by the numerous nationalities: Georgians, Osetins, Cherkesses, Chechens, Avars, Lezgins and many others. Lots of settlements are situated on the riverbanks.
Very often their inhabitants are unbelievably hospitable, especially in Georgia. Unfortunately the conflicts between different ethnic groups are very common here. Therefore, before trip you have to get information about political situation in local region.
The Caucasus is an area of the ancient civilization. The culture monuments (churches, fortresses and cave cloisters) can be found in every corner of this wonderful country.
All of these together with hospitality and perfect Georgian wine will make your impressions unforgettable.
The best start points for travelling by water are Mineralnye Wody(North Caucasus), Tbilisi (Georgia, South) and Makhachkala (East Caucasus) cities.
The road network is well developed and you are supposed do not face any problems when getting to the rafting start points.|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|
Aksaut |
3+ |
75 (46) |
15(78) |
25(875) |
|
Alazani |
3 |
120(74) |
10(52) |
|
|
Andiyskoye Koysu |
5-6 |
152(94) |
8.6(44.7) |
100(3500) |
|
Aragvi (Belaya & Pshavskaya) |
4 |
90(56) |
10(52) |
30(1050) |
|
Ardon |
4-5 |
65(40) |
20(104) |
|
|
Baksan |
3+ |
70(43) |
11(57.2) |
30(1050) |
|
Belaya |
6 |
55-60(37) |
20(104) |
60(2100) |
|
Big Liakhvi |
4+ |
100(62) |
||
|
Big Zelenchuk |
3+ |
27(17) |
15(78) |
30(1050) |
|
Bol'shaya (Big) Laba |
4-5 |
52(32) |
10(52) |
80(2800) |
|
Bzyb' |
6 |
|||
|
Dzhurmut &Avarskoye Koisu |
5-6 |
158(98) |
15.2(79) |
150(5250) |
|
Kodori |
3-5 |
75-80(50) |
17(88.4) |
30(1050) |
|
Kuban' |
4 |
57(35) |
8.6(44.7) |
80(2800) |
|
Kura |
3-4 |
127(79) |
4(20.8) |
100(3500) |
|
Malka |
4 |
126(78) |
12(62.4) |
15(525) |
|
Paravani |
5+ |
50(31) |
13(67.6) |
40(1400) |
|
Rioni |
4-6 |
130(81) |
18(93.6) |
80(2800) |
|
Samur |
4 |
100(62) |
10(52) |
80(2800) |
|
Teberda |
3 |
45(28) |
12(62.4) |
25(875) |
|
Tskheniskali |
5-6 |
75-95(47-59) |
20(104) |
60(2100) |
|
Urukh |
3-6 |
70(43) |
15(78) |
30(1050) |
ASIAN PART OF THE FORMER SOVIET UNION
There are several areas for whitewater rafting in Asian part of the former USSR. Roughly we may divide it onto Siberia and Central Asia. These two parts are very different in many aspects: climate, relief, density and culture of population, and of course, the rivers.
Siberia
The most popular areas for whitewater traveling in Siberia are Altai and Sayan mountains on the South, along borders with China and Mongolia; Lake Baikal area, North of Siberia - rivers on Plato Putoran; North East, and Far East.
ALTAI
The Altai, situated in southwestern Siberia near the Mongolian and Chinese border, is the highest mountain range in Siberia. Within this range, the tallest group of mountains -known as the Katunskiy Range - is located in the central section, and includes the region's highest peak, Belukha, which stands at 4406 meters.
More importantly for rafters, it is a region rich in glaciers. Nearly 1500 of them cover an area of more than 300 square kilometers (about 110 sq.mi). Thus, the numerous rivers of the Altai are assured a healthy and steady supply of water throughout the spring and summer, as the melting snow followed by melting glaciers and summer rain.
In July, the average daytime temperatures are around 19 to 22 degrees centigrade (72-76F)on the foothills, and slightly cooler in the valleys. As comfortable as the days are in July, however, one should know that in summer, the nighttime temperatures might drop to 6 below zero centigrade. The annual rainfall is around 1,000 to 2,000 millimeters. Most of the precipitation comes in summer and fall. The best season for boating here is July and August.
Of course, there are great rivers in these mountains. The most interesting for rafting are the Katun', Argut, Bashkaus, Chulyshman, and Chuya rivers. Most of them have steep gradients. Typically, the water level in these rivers rises rapidly during a rainstorm and returns to normal soon after. One will also discover that the valleys in the higher regions are wide and, thus, the currents are relatively weak here. But in the middle and lower reaches, the valleys are narrow and deeply cut. Sheer walls, known in Russia as "cheeks" often squeeze the rivers. Many of these rivers then run out of the gorges in the form or waterfalls, the largest of which is the Chulchinskiy.
This is a sparsely settled region with a population of around 200,000 people, mostly Altaians, Kasakhs, and Russians. The main occupation is breeding sheep and cattle, though the area has also attracted significant mining activity, including the extraction of mercury, gold, iron, and various minerals.
Throughout this region, there is only one major pretty good road, the Chuiskiy Trakt, stretching from Biysk through Gorno-Altaysk (these cities are a biggest in Gorno-Altai region and they are located near foot of mountain area) to the Mongolian border. Local airlines connect the various remote areas of Altai with Barnaul (biggest city in region) and Gorno-Altaysk. The best approach of Altai region is airplane to Novosibirsk and Barnaul.
|
RIVER |
CLASS |
LENGTH, km(mi.) |
GRADIENT m/km(ft/mi.) |
VOLUME, cub.m/s(cfs) |
||||
|
Argut |
5 - 6 |
163 (101) |
7.2 (38) |
100 (3530) |
||||
|
Bashkaus (lower canyon) |
6 |
230 (143) |
9.5(50.3) 33(175) |
80 (2820) |
||||
|
Big Sumul'ta |
3+ |
70 (44) |
20 (105.5) |
20 (700) |
||||
|
Biya |
2 |
200 (124) |
1 (5.3) |
450 (16000) |
||||
|
Bukhtarma |
3 |
225 |
||||||
|
Chul'cha |
5 - 6 |
125 (78) |
7.5 (39.6) |
45 (1600) |
||||
|
Chulyshman - with Yazulu canyon |
5 6 |
190(118) 220(137) |
9 (47.5) 27 (142.6) |
150 (5300) |
||||
|
Chuya - (Mazhoy cascade) |
4+ 6 |
170 (106) 8 (5) |
5.8 (30.6) 22 (116) |
100 (3530) |
||||
|
Kargon - Inya - Charysh - Kumyr |
4 |
160(99) |
12 (63.3) |
35 (1225) |
||||
|
Katun' |
3+ - 4 |
485(301) or309(192) |
3.2 (16.9) |
650 (23000) |
||||
|
Mras-Soo |
3+ |
220(137) |
||||||
|
Ona |
3+ |
170(106) |
||||||
|
Peschanaya |
3 |
200 (124) |
5.3 (28) |
40 (1400) |
||||
|
Shavla - Argut (Shavla itself) |
5 |
245 (153) 47 (29) |
15 (79.2) |
40 (1400) |
||||
|
Uba |
3 |
250(155) |
||||||
|
Ursul |
3+ |
110 (68) |
6 (31.6) |
30 (1050) |
||||
SAYANY REGION
The Sayany region, one of the most popular outdoor tourist areas in Russia, is a great horseshoe of rugged mountains stretching from the Altai region to Lake Baikal in southern Siberia, just north of the Mongolian border. Usually outdoor travelers divide this region onto three areas: Eastern Sayan, Western Sayan and Tuva. At its western end, the Sayany is separated from the Altai by the Shapshalskiy chain of mountains, with peaks towering to 3,614 meters.
The high mountains and deep hollows of this region, dotted with oval blue lakes, were formed during the last glacial period. Ancient ice fields, in fact, can still be found here. They form on plateaus called "sarams." For nearly 11 months of the year the sarams are covered with snow.
Summer here last for 60 days, at best. In July, the average temperature ranges from 16 to 6 degrees Celsius (64-44F), depending on altitude. The best time for whitewater trips over there is second half of July and August.
The Eastern Sayany includes more than 100 glaciers, none more than 30 square kilometers. This eastern section does not get a lot of rain and snow, but the mountains in Western Sayany average 800 to 1,200 mm of snow and rain every year. Tuva is very special area located in the very center of Asian continent. It has unique landscapes, and some peculiarities that make it very different from any other region of the USSR.
More importantly for whitewater enthusiasts, the Sayany mountains are laced with numerous rivers. In particular, a large number of rivers are found in the valley of Yenisey -- one of the biggest rivers of world, which carries its water from Sayany - center of Asian continent - into Arctic ocean. Almost all of them very picturesque, have beautiful clean transparent water, and numerous rapids. Most of these rivers are surrounded by woodland rich in cedar, larch, and birch trees. One can also find wonderful wild berries and mushrooms along most rivers here.
These clean rivers support a healthy fish population, including graylings and taimens, a kind of salmon.
There are almost no mosquitoes or midges along the rivers in summer, so you can enjoy the trip without the maddening distraction of insects. To add to the pleasure of this area, there are numerous hot and cold mineral springs found near the rivers.
The region contains few villages and roads. A little bit better situation one can fin in Tuva.
The main outposts are Krasnoyarsk, Kyzyl, Nizhneudinsk, and Irkutsk. From these cities, you can get to certain rivers either by truck or helicopter, though in many cases you'll need to hike a good distance through the taiga.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km(ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s(cfs) |
|
Alash - Khemchik |
3 |
250(155) |
3.6 (19) |
30 (1050) |
|
Bash-Khem |
4+ |
|||
|
Belin-Khem - Kyzyl-Khem |
4 |
231(143) |
2.4 (12.7) |
80 (2500) |
|
Biryusa |
3 |
230(142) |
||
|
Biy-Khem |
4+ |
270(167) |
||
|
Dotot - Khamsara |
3 |
250(155) |
||
|
Gutara |
3 |
250(155) |
||
|
Irkut |
3 |
200(124) |
4(20.8) |
40 |
|
Izig-Sug - Khamsara |
3 |
340 (211) |
||
|
Kaa-Khem |
4 |
267 (166) |
3.3 (17.4) |
60 (2120) |
|
Kantegir |
3 |
250(155) |
||
|
Kazyr |
3+ |
200(124) |
4(20.8) |
|
|
Kitoy canyon Motkin Cheeks |
5 |
240 (149) 8 |
5 (26.6) 25 (131) |
80 (2500) |
|
Onot |
4+ |
102 (63) |
5(26.6) |
60 (2100) |
|
Sayan Oka |
3+ - 4 |
410 (255) |
4.5 (23.8) |
400 (14000) |
|
Uda |
5 |
430 (267) |
2.6 (13.7) |
80 (2500) |
|
Ulug-O |
5 |
116 (89) |
8 (42.3) |
60 (2120) |
|
Urik |
4+ |
190 (118) |
5.7(30.2) |
60 (2100) |
LAKE BAIKAL AREA
Lake Baikal, the biggest reservoir of fresh water on the Earth, is surrounded with the mountain chains until 2800m high. The mountains are covered with the taiga.
The region has the dense river network. The main source of water for these rivers is rain. The rivers break ice in the end of May. All 336 rivers belonging to Baikal Basin run into it, but only Angara carries Baikal water out. Majority of rivers running to Baikal poor in water, with the exception of Utulik, Khara-Murin, Snezhnaya, and Temnik. The rivers of Lena basin also belong to this region but they have plenty of water. The water in rivers is very clean and cold : about 6-12C.
The population is concentrated mainly in the towns, around them and along the BAM railway. The main occupation of people in these little tons is railway service and mining. The rafting rivers flow through the absolutely unpopulated areas. There are no roads there, and the rivers are to be approached only on foot. Therefore there is practically no chance to stop the trip between the start and the finish points.
Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, and Chita are the main start points for traveling in this area.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km(ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|||||
|
Chara |
3 |
350(217) |
|
|
|||||
|
Chaya |
3+ - 4 |
340 (211) |
3.3(17.4) |
60(2100) |
|||||
|
Khaiverga&Big Patom |
4 |
409(254) |
5(26.4) |
80(2800) |
|||||
|
Khara-Murin |
4+ -5 |
52(32) |
18.8(99.3) |
55(1940) |
|||||
|
Snezhnaya |
5 |
93(58) |
10.6(56) |
110(3880) |
|||||
|
Sygykta |
4 |
200(124) |
|
|
|||||
|
Temnik |
4 |
150(93) |
6.5(33.8) |
||||||
|
Tsipa |
3+ |
385(239) |
1(5.3) |
100(3500) |
|||||
|
Utulik |
4 |
35(22) |
14(73.8) |
30(1050) |
|||||
|
Zun-Murin |
3+ - 4 |
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NORTHERN AND NORTH-EASTERN SIBERIA
We will touch the only main problems of rafting in this very peculiar region which fully includes the Northern Yenisey basin, the Yakutian mountains and the north of the Far East.
The Putoran Mountains are especially interesting for river runners here. It is the highest part of the Middle Siberian plateau. The relief is not usual here. The table-like sections of the plateau are cut with narrow canyons. The long deep lakes are situated in them (50 to 120 km), and the rapid rivers as well.
Late melting snow and rain feed these rivers. A sort of staircase of the canyons' slopes helps to form magnificent waterfalls. Much water and moisture provide the moderate of the continental climate. Average July temperature is 10 to 12 above zero Celsius, record to 30. Rivers and lakes are rich in fish, as well as air in insects.
The center of this area is Norilsk. All water routes start here and Turukhansk. We provide some information about the most popular ones here.
Planning your way through the Putorans consider transport problems arriving at and departing from the area of the active route part. There is no roads and only transport is small airplanes and (if you have some luck) helicopters. In the tables you will find length of water part of trip. In many cases you have to take pretty strenuous hike from river to river. If you are ready, you are welcome to Northern Siberia!|
RIVER |
CLASS |
LENGTH, km (mi.) |
|
Big Khonnamakit + Oran |
4+ |
|
|
Big Konnamakit & Ayan |
4 |
500 |
|
Khusana + Khugdyakit |
4+ |
|
|
Kotuy + Kureyka |
4 |
|
|
Kureyka |
4 |
570 |
|
Kureyka + Kulyumbe |
4 |
|
|
Severnaya |
3+ |
500 |
The mountains of the NorthEastern Siberia are the system consisting of the Verhoyanski chain, the chains of Cherski and Suntar Khayat and the Ukagir plateau. Yakutia boarders on this area in the South closed by the Stanovoy chain.
The north of the area has rigorous climate. Low record 71 below zero. (Yana- Oymyakon plateau). Permafrost occupies the area. The ice surfaces are formed from time to time in the river valleys (called "taryny"). The largest of them are in the Moma valley. Summer is warm to 12-17 degrees above zero.
The northwest of Yakutia is the region of the thin larch taiga and bushy tundra .
The small population-on of the area practices hunting and deer breeding, among them are Russians, Evens and Evenks, Chukotians. The gold-mining and coal extraction is practiced in the villages.
This big area is very interesting for river runners. Many rivers have been explored here. All of them are in the almost unpopulated areas and are long (600 to 1000 km ), but you will see really wild nature.
The two areas described above are attached by Priokhotye region: the Kolyma and Yudomo- Mayskoye plateaus, the Yudomski and Kukhtuyskiy (altitudes 2000), Dzhugdzhur and Pribrezhnyi. The traces of ancient icing are still seen here. Boulders' ranges take 5 per cent of average area. Icing is usual for valleys. The climate is damp but rigorous. Snow is on from September to May. Summer is pretty cool (10-12 degrees). On the rivers floods are frequent. All rivers of this area flow through unpopulated territory
The start point for approach: Yakutsk, Magadan. Remember : There is very limited number of roads over there, some of them work only in winter time. Often the only way to reach the river is a special helicopter flight.
Russian river runners still weakly explore the area. Hence, we mention only the main routes. Nevertheless, the possibilities to discover new interesting river routes are limitless.
.
Here is some interesting North a -Eastern Yakutia and Priokhotye river.
|
RIVER |
CLASS |
LENGTH, km (mi.) |
|
Del'kyu - Okhota |
3 |
500 (310) |
|
Detrin - Kolyma |
3 |
350 (217) |
|
Gonam - Uchur |
3+ |
900 (558) |
|
Indigirka |
3 |
590 (366) |
|
Sutam+Gonam+Uchur+Aldan |
3 |
720 (446) |
|
Timpton + Aldan |
3+ |
600 (372) |
|
Yudoma +Ketanda + Urak |
3+ |
500(310) |
The huge area of South-Eastern Siberia can be referred to the Far East, including the Khabarovskiy and Primorskiy Territories of Russia. Usually there are two mountain regions mentioned here, namely Sikhote-Alin' and the Amur mountains. The Sikhote-Alin' consists of several chains stretching along the Japan Sea shore. The average altitudes are about 800-1200 m, but there are separate peaks more than 2000 m high. The mountains of the Amur occupy three-fourths of the territory of Amur Region. The average altitudes of numerous chains (the are about 2000 m.
Nowhere on the Earth the monsoons approach these Northern altitudes as in the Far East. The climate's feature is big amounts of precipitation (about 600-1500 mm a year). Their main part falls down in July and August. The long monsoon showers may influence the great territory, and sometimes 150-250 mm of rains fall during one day. Powerful floods often take place, during which the level of the river water rises at several meters.
The average temperature of August is about 20 Celsius above 0.
The rivers of the region mainly belong to the Amur basin. The rivers of the Eastern Sikhote-Alin' slopes flow into the Japan Sea. They are not complicated as a rule, their banks are not populated. Most rivers can be approached after a difficult trip on foot. Most interesting for rafting and most picturesque rivers are the Kema, Zeva, Bikin, and Akishma rivers. The best time for rafting is August for the Amur mountains rivers and late August - early September for the Sikhote-Alin' rivers.
As a rule you may reach the start point of active part of trip from small mining towns, that connected with Big Land by small planes only. The main extracted minerals here are non-ferrous metals including gold. The timber cutting is practiced here too, and most of the population is employed and lives here. The main part of population of region is Russians. In the small forest villages the original inhabitants of the taiga live, namely the Yakuts, the Udeges and the Orochs.
There are very few roads there. The general way to reach the area of the start points for rafting is to take one of the small planes from Vladivostok or Khabarovsk.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|
Akishma + Niman |
4 -5 |
323(200) |
|
60(2100) |
|
Armu |
2 |
|||
|
Avacha (Kamchatka) |
3+ |
|||
|
Bikin |
3 |
|
|
|
|
Kema |
4 |
85(53) |
10.2(54) |
50(1750) |
|
Zeva + Bikin |
3 |
|
|
|
CENTRAL ASIAN REGION
PAMIR AND PAMIRO-ALAI
The Pamir is often called "The Roof of The World" and situated to the South from the Fergana Valley. These are the highest mountainous areas of the former USSR. The Pamir include almost all highest peaks among them the "seven-thousand" picks, i.e. mountains exceeding 7000 m in height, namely: the Kommunism Peak 7495m, Lenin 7134m . The landscapes of different parts of the Pamir vary strongly. The Eastern Pamir differ greatly because of their ancient relief: wide flat valleys, numerous hollows at the height of 3500-4500 m. The 6000 m high chains tower above these plateaus. The Western Pamirs' slopes are very steep and are often cut by narrow canyons. The lower parts of the slopes are covered with slide remains. Naked rocks and slide remains prevail in the landscape. The terraces are the only places for man's living and activity. The Pamiro-Alai is mountain system from the North and North-West of Pamir, but separated from Tien-Shan ranges on the North. It includes the Alai, Turkestan, Zeravshan and Gissar ranges. The Pamirs' icing is majestic. 7100 glaciers are known including the Fedchenko Glacier. It is 77 km long and 1000 m deep. Glaciers feed all the Pamirs' rivers, for instance, Amu-Dar'ya and the rivers of its basin. The rivers of Eastern Pamir are shallow as a rule, with slight gradient and weak current. The Western Pamir and the Pamir-Alai rivers are famous for their steep falling and fast rough current, big rapids and waterfalls. Their water is colored from red to black according to the soil the tiny parts of which the river carries. The river-beds are almost blocked-up with fallen stones, so these rivers are the most complicated in the former USSR. Nowadays the following rivers are checked, rafted and preferable for rafting: the Matcha, Zeravshan, Murgab, Kudara, Surkhob, Bartang, Gunt, Shakhdara, Yazgulem, Sorbo, Kafirnigan, Obikhingou, Muksu and many other rivers. The whitewater season is September through October. The main part of population here - mountain Tadzhiks - lives in valleys and practice cattle-breeding and gardening (in the Pamiro-Alai). Old kishlaks-- mountain villages-- are unique. Some of them are separated from the civilization and populated with the most hospitable people you have probably seen. You will see old fortresses, narrow streets of mountain villages having "blind" walls of homes, rivulets of cold water running along these streets. You will find "the lost world" here, and believe it is a miracle. All these words especially true for upstreams of Matcha, Yagnob and Kudara. The main automobile road of the Pamir is called Pamirskiy Trakt and stretches from Osh City through towns Murgab and Khorog to Dushanbe City. Dirt roads link it to the mountainous areas. Osh, Samarkand, Dushanbe and Khorog are the best start points for rafting.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|
Alichur - Gunt |
5+ |
280(174) |
60(2100) |
|
|
Matcha & Zeravshan |
5 |
265(165) |
5.4(28.5) |
80(2825) |
|
Muksu |
6 |
100(62) |
11(58) |
100(3500) |
|
Murgab + Bartang |
4+ |
360(223.5) |
50(1750) |
|
|
Obikhingou |
6 |
140(87) |
9.2(48.6) |
200(7000) |
|
SardayMiyona+Kafirnigan |
4+ |
90(56) |
|
35(1225) |
|
Shakhdara |
6 |
147(91.3) |
17.4(92) |
45(1575) |
|
Sorbo + Kafirnigan |
4+ |
100(62) |
40(1400) |
|
|
Yagnob & Fandar'ya |
5 |
112(70) |
10.3(54.4) |
35(1225) |
|
Yazgulem |
6 |
95(59) |
19.2(101.5) |
50(1750) |
TIEN SHAN
The Western part of Tien Shan ( translated as Blue Mountains) is situated on the territory of the former USSR. This part is mainly situated in Kirgizia and partly in Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan and Tadzhikistan. Most Tien Shan chains stretch along the latitude and are just 1200 km long. The highest peak is the Pobeda (Victory) Peak of 7493 m. The average July temperature near the mountain foot is about 20-25 degrees above zero . There are 7787 glaciers of 7326 sq. km area on Tien Shan. Glaciers and the melting snow feed the rivers. Their flood is in summer, and as a rule, they flow into the desert lakes. Almost all the rivers are extremely interesting for rafting. They are complicated (Class 5 and 6). Most popular among them are the Sandalash, Chatkal, Chilik, Chon-Kemin, Kekemeren, Naryn, Oygaing, Pskem, and Charyn rivers. Each of them has a magnificent canyons.
The best rafting season is late August and September. The Kirgizian population practices cattle-breeding and agriculture. Villages are located only in the lower river reaches. The roads net is pretty good, at least much better than in Siberia and Pamir. The Put In points of most river routes can be reached either by car or by air. The main start points for travelling in Tien Shan' are Bishkek, Osh, Tashkent, Namangan and DzhaSary-Dzhazmbul.
|
RIVER |
Class |
Length, km(mi.) |
Gradient, m/km (ft/mi.) |
Volume, cub.m/s (cfs) |
|
Alabuka |
6 |
|||
|
Alai-Kuu+Oy-Tal + Tar |
5 |
185(115) |
11.4(60.2) |
40(1400) |
|
Big Naryn & Naryn |
5 |
335(208) |
5.2(27.6) |
90(3200) |
|
Chilik |
5+ |
120(74.5) |
13.2(69.7) |
60(2100) |
|
Chon-Kemin |
5 |
140(87) |
12(63.4) |
40(1400) |
|
Kegen & Charyn |
4 - 6 |
260(162) |
|
|
|
Kekemeren & Naryn |
5+ |
197(122) |
10(53) |
70(2450) |
|
Koksu |
4 |
248(154) |
||
|
Lepsy |
4 |
40(1400) |
||
|
Maidantal & Pskem |
6 |
127(79) |
13.2(69.7) |
20(700)M |
|
Oigaing & Pskem |
6 |
129(80) |
13.2(69.7) |
30(1060)O 120(4240)P |
|
Sandalash&Chatkal |
5 |
140(87) |
8.8(46.5)Ch 13.2(69.7)S |
20(700)S 100(3500)Ch |
|
Sary-Dzhaz |
5 |
165(102) |
8(42.1) |
|
|
Uchemchek+Dzilusu+ Bolgart+Small Naryn +Naryn |
5 |